Coldharbour is a very ancient British pilgriamge tradition. In short, it is accommodation for pilgrims without silver coins for the inn, or for whom the city gates had already closed.
Locations for such a purpose were once well-known and shared by pilgrims. These common sleep-spots were called Coldharbour (lane, farm or hill), and they can be found all over the UK. Though these places no longer serve as active Coldharbours, the name marks the extent of a once widespread tradition.
Coldharbouring is also known as emergency camping - bivouacking - or wild-camping. If you find yourself without another option, for whatever reason, Coldharbour is the option of quietly and gently sleeping alongside the footpath.
A great advantage of Coldharbouring is the sense of journey continuity. You walk, sleep by the path, then wake and carry on walking. Sleep (and dream) becomes a seamless element of your pilgrimage journey. Also, you can choose beautiful hidden spots in nature, which offer deep green sleep, and are usually wonderful to wake up in. Coldharbouring lets you feel connected to the landscape, and deepens your sense of immersion in the journey.
Is Coldharbouring Legal?
The key to successful Coldharbouring is subtlety - to not be seen or heard - usually by arriving late and departing early. If nobody notices you, and you leave no trace of your slumber, then you will meet no problems.
But you should be clear - in the UK almost all land is privately owned, and permission is technically required to sleep on it, even beside a public footpath. Even for one brief night, even if you are deeply tired and in need of rest, it is a civil offence to sleep beside a footpath.
Such laws are obviously contrary to the basic common-sense of animal life and natural reality. No other animal would agree to such silliness. When you need to rest, you must stop walking and sleep. That’s it.
As such, Coldharbouring is not legally recognised, but the reclamation of the tradition can be seen in the modern ‘wild-camping’ movement. I prefer not to use this term, as too often ‘wild-camping’ means people in cars looking for a space to make a mess and not clean it up. I prefer to call Coldharbouring ‘Emergency Camping’, as a functional necessity for pilgrimage.
How to Coldharbour
Coldharbouring is a missing link in the British pilgrimage tradition. The UK has so many footpaths and walking routes, but modern economic thinking dictates we should buy each night’s sleep. This is impractical and wrong, if obeyed, makes pilgrimage a privilege of the wealthy. This will not do. Coldharbouring makes pilgrimage affordable and accessible, ensuring its benefits are spread throughout society to those who need them most.
The best place to Coldharbour has always been the green heart of the woods. Pilgrims and outlaws throughout British history have repaired to the woods for safety and comfort. Here you will be protected from the wind, you’ll be less visible, and you will be warmed by the bio-mass of roots and wood-mice. It is noticeably warmer in woods than in open fields. Furthermore, you will find plenty of twigs for your cooker, if that is how you cook.
It is best to remain a relatively close to the footpath, so you can easily return to the path come morning, but also far enough that early-rising dog walkers won’t encounter you. Always avoid fields with livestock, as cows and sheep can be curious and dangerous to sleeping people. Also avoid trampling any crops, or causing damage in any form. If you cook by fire, be sure to use a container. It may be best to cook on gas or meths, for safety and subtlety.
If you are challenged while Coldharbouring, always remain polite and listen. Be agreeable and graceful. As a pilgrim, mobility is your definitive characteristic, so moving elsewhere, if someone insists, is always possible. In practice, I have Coldharboured many hundreds of nights and only once been moved on. Kindness and politeness are the best tactic in all such situations.
The only real requirement is flat ground (unless you are a hammock sleeper). But there is much more to look out for. Clear the ground carefully around your sleep-spot. A small bump can cause you to sleep in funny positions that may impact your next day’s journey. Sometimes, on steep hills, the path itself is the only flat part, so this can work if needed. Likewise, always look out for insect life. They were here first. Don’t sleep among anthills.
Consider your closeness to water. Biting insects often breed in lakes and ponds, and these are best avoided. Also, condensation is worse near water-sources. But you may need fresh water to drink and wash with. Be sure to have a full water reservoir before settling down. Sleep is thirsty work, and you’ll want that morning drink ready to go.
Whether you choose to sleep in a tent, or a bivy bag & tarp - or even just wrapped in a blanket - Coldharbouring is the most immersive and rewarding form of pilgrimage accommodation, and learning how to find sleep-spots opens up the landscape in new ways. It is a fun game to play all day - where could I sleep here? - and it’s always worth marking on the map quality sleep spots you find for other days.
I recommend carrying a basic Coldharbouring kit, even if you don’t intend to use it. On a pilgrimage journey, you never know what will unfold.
The best colours for Coldharbouring kit are green or brown, subtle dark shades that will not draw attention. If you are too visible, responsible locals may feel compelled to come and ask you what you’re doing, the inconvenience of which might annoy them and cause friction. Coldharbouring works best with subtlety and stealth.
Avoid sharing the location of your Coldharbour spots, especially online. This might constitute an act of harm, if hundreds of facebook friends and car-campers arrive to use the same spot! Keep Coldharbouring locations secret.
If you want to try a slightly less feral approach, you can always ask in the local pub whether there are spots where wild sleepers traditionally go? Be sure to wait until you’ve established a rapport before asking for this. Signalling your intent too widely can be unwise. But if you ask the right person in the right way, they might tell you about a particular corner of a field has been used by pilgrims for generations. Sometimes these spots even have a fire-pit waiting for you!
You may also find that an invitation to sleep in a garden can be won (if that is something you want). You’ll likely need to trade on the kudos of your journey, so this works best with longer distance pilgrimages. If they’re impressed, some freehold pubs may allow a night of camping in the pub garden.
Crucial kit for Coldharbouring is a comfortable mat, and a quilt or sleeping bag. A liner is also useful, to keep your sleeping kit clean and add temperature variability. You also need waterproofing. A bivy bag is a minimalist way to achieve this. If you can get one with built in mosquito-netting, all the better. A roof, in the form of a poncho or tarp, is also helpful for heavy rain.
A tent is also a good way to combine all these functions - though tents offer neither the flexibility, nor the sense of outdoor immersion, of a bivy and tarp. But they can provide a feeling of security in certain weather. Hammocks are another viable option, which often include built-in tarps and mosquito nets, if you can sleep well in a hammock. I cannot.
If Coldharbouring seems a bit too risky for you, you almost certainly should try it. Your journey’s sense of deepening connection with the landscape is enriched by becoming unconscious in a natural environment. Also, your sense of freedom and self-confidence will increase, to know that you can safely sleep almost anywhere. It makes you feel like you belong to the land, and the land to you.
